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A blessing, perhaps: the 18-hour days, Avi in the kitchen helping the chef, me running the front of house while simultaneously keeping an eye on the children’s homework, the kind of tiredness that meant we were never able to really take stock or marvel at our full bookings diary.

The first 18 months were as good as it was going to get at Ida.



People liked the lack of formality, the plates of hand-rolled pasta, the kind of wholesome, unphotogenic food, such as calf’s liver or a hand-chopped lamb ragu, which no filter in the world can beautify on Instagram, and yet which instantly tastes like soul food.

While the building work was going on, Avi, a worrier, had done endless profit forecasts (in between designing his dream kitchen), but the truth is that neither of us could have foreseen what the future held for us and our three children.

'We were visited by celebrities including Hugh Grant and Lily Allen,' she said Perhaps my greetings were too effusive, or I’d been too quick to airily dismiss the empty dining room as nothing to worry about.

The recession might be over, at least on paper, but at moments like these I realise we are still living in its shadow. The pretty, Grade II listed Victorian corner shop in West London’s Queen’s Park had been a greengrocer’s when we moved into the area in 1996; then a Lebanese café, then had stood empty for years.

His sister Clara, a GP in Rome, cheerfully hand-rolls tagliatelle at 6am before putting in a day at the clinic, while every family holiday we have ever been on revolves around the buying and preparing of local produce.And although my role as front of house/PR/waitress was only meant to be for a year (after which I would return to the children and my novel writing), in my heart I knew that I was in it for the long haul.


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